Absinthe Reviews - Swiss Absinthes

Kübler 57
Switzerland, 57% alc. vol. (114 proof), 0.5 liter
Another sample, so graciously provided to me by Markus Lion. First off I must say that I've heard so many different views on the Kübler that I didn't quite know what to expect. When opening the bottle I was a little surprised of the smell. I guess I was expecting something a little smoother than this. It has a very earthy tone to it, almost a little burnt somehow. Tasted neat it was very strong, but the taste was way smoother and likeable than I had expected from the smell. And then, when adding water and sugar it really came to life. A very nice, still earthy, taste that definitely appealed to me - appeared. As expected a very good, white louche follows the water. As I understand, this is supposed to be some kind of "Suisse La Bleue" substitute, which I don't quite know if it qualifies as. But it certainly is a good absinthe which I highly recommend.

Veritable Fée Verte - Absinthe Kübler 53
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 0.5 liter
Right from the heart of the Val de Travers comes this new and really fine product from Blackmint Distillers. First I got a sample of this from a friend in Germany, and once I had sampled it, I knew I'd buy it as soon as it would get out. I was then graciously provided with a bottle of the Kübler 53, as I prefer to call it, from the distillery in order to be able to do a more thorough tasting.

So, what's this new product like? Is it only a modified Extrait d'Absinthe Kübler 57? No, it is not. It's at a lower alcohol level, but it's got a much fuller and richer taste. I'd say it's a completely different product. In this, the Kübler 53, that earthy - or burnt - tone of the Kübler 57, is long gone. This is actually a very fine Bleue, or Blanche if you prefer.

The first thing I notice when opening the bottle is a nice smooth smell of fennel and anise. If I let the nose take it in for a while longer, I scent a nice herbal blend with a fine touch of wormwood. It's got a totally different character from the other Kübler absinthes. This one is more towards the floral complex character of the Blanche de Fougerolles. Not quite as complex, but well on its way to the top.

Tasted neat it is, of course, not that strong, considering it's "only" at 53%. Dilluted with water it presents a thick white louche and the floral aromas come out in a very fine manner. It's rather dominant on the fennel and anise, but once tasting it, you can clearly taste the wormwood, lingering on the back of the tongue. Very nice.

So, to conclude this, I'd say that the Kübler 53 - Veritable Fée Verte - is a very good absinthe. It fits right there at the top of the blanches along with Blanche de Fougerolles and the White Fairy. I would recommend anyone to get a bottle of this, any day. Val de Travers is back...

The Kübler 53 was awarded a Silver Medal at the 2008 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

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Suisse La Bleue (produced before legalization)
Switzerland, ~55% alc. vol. (110 proof), sample
Distilled in clandestine stills somewhere in the Val d'Travers in Switzerland. The home and origin of absinthe. Completely transparent, illegal and surrounded by myths and rumours - this must be something really special. Atleast considering the prices paid for this. Online one can obtain Suisse La Bleue in the US for about $200 per bottle. Within Europe it can be purchased, also online for about $140. With this in mind I've been longing to try a Suisse La Bleue. And now I have. Am I thrilled? Am I overwhelmed with the mighty powers of this drink? No, I am not. There are many clandestine distillers doing their own "La Bleues", and I know that there are many that are very good, but they are rarely possible to find, unless you actually go to Switzerland yourself. And once there, if you find someone who wants to sell you some, you do not need to pay those huge amounts, but maybe a third of that. Either way, the one that I tried was actually quite one dimensional. It was in no way sensational neither by smell, nor by taste. I actually commented to it, while drinking it, that this might very well just be a rebottled ouzo. I then got to try another "blanche" (or "bleue") and found that one much more appealing. However, that one actually was an ouzo. Sure, it was fairly good, and tasted quite allright but it is not worth those outrageous amounts of money. Especially not considering the fact that you order something that has travelled all around the world, supposedly coming from a source you know nothing about, in a non-sealed bottle and could very well be a $15 ouzo. I am still hoping to one day be able to find a good La Bleue during a visit to the Val d'Travers, but until then I'll stick to the commercial Blanches instead. Much cheaper, and much better.

(Picture courtesy of La Fee Verte Absinthe House)

Suisse La Bleue/Verte - Plum Base
Switzerland, 65% alc. vol. (130 proof), 0.30 liter
From Val de Travers in Switzerland comes this clandestine absinthe. All thanks to Simon Pedersen, I got the chance to sample this one. It dates back to around 2000 so it has had time to settle in and age very well.

So what's the deal on this one? Why bother reviewing another clandestine Suisse La Bleue? Well, this isn't an ordinary La Bleue by far. First of all, this is a verte. Second it tastes like nothing I've had before. The very heavy sediments on the bottom of the bottle told me this would be very heavy in taste, and it is. It's got a really special herbal sort of spicyness to it. I can't quite explain it, but it's very interesting.

So, opening the bottle and the first thing I notice is the very obvious smell of... plum! Plum mixed with a lot of herbs, mainly wormwood and also a very slight hint of anise and what I believe might be hyssop. Tasting it neat is actually a very pleasant suprise. It's good. Considering the first smell of it, that was a huge surprise.

Adding water to it produces a nice light green louche and its intense smell mellows and spreads in the room. The taste is ofcourse a bit smoother now, but still very heavy. It's not really complex, just intense and heavy. Some how it does appeal to me, and I do like it. The plum base adds a very interesting texture to the drink and as I said, I've never tasted anything like it before.

La Valote - Bovet
Switzerland, 54% alc. vol. (108 proof), sample
From Val de Travers, Switzerland - after 90 years of prohibition, the Suisse La Bleues are yet again legally distilled. Many of the formerly clandestine distillers now distill their age old variations legally. This one comes from a small distillery in Moitiers, Val de Travers. I obtained this, and the other two La Valote absinthes from my danish absintheur friend, "Gertz". So, how about the drink then?

First impression of this one was very similar to most La Bleues. Rahter heavy on the fennel with a wormwood background. Anise present but not obtrusive. The perfectly clear absinthe had a rather simple aroma but it was actually quite promising. Adding water produced a very thick fine louche and the absinthe turned perfectly milky thick and white. This did release a more floral aroma, but still not as much as I'd expected.

The taste is equal to the expectations from the aroma. It was not very complex but the composition was finely tuned and it was a refreshing drink. I'd say this one was quite ordinary in taste and it would probably benefit from additional work but how do you tell that to someone who's made this absinthe for ages? Oh well.

(Picture courtesy of Christopher Gertz Bech)

La Valote - Martin
Switzerland, 54% alc. vol. (108 proof), sample
Another one of the La Valotes. The three different ones are all "signature" absinthe from the three makers. You can read more about that on their webpage (http://www.absinthe-lavalote.ch/index.php).

The Martin had a somewhat off smell that I couldn't quite nail down to what it was. At first it seemed entirely misplaced and I figured that this one would be quite bad. The aroma was much like the others, rather one dimensional of sorts but promising none the less. Then there was this weird addition to it.

Adding water didn't do much difference to the aroma but the clear absinthe did louch wonderfully and turned to a nice white.

(Picture courtesy of Christopher Gertz Bech)

La Valote - Fornoni
Switzerland, 54% alc. vol. (108 proof), sample
And the last one of the La Valote absinthes - the Fornoni variation. This one was actually the least good one. Upon smelling it I couldn't really detect anything special going on. It was very much like the Bovet but with less aromas actually coming out.

The louche was actually a bit thinner than the others but this too did turn to a nice white. Taste-wise this wasn't a surprise. I'm surprised however, that they bothered to release this one since the Bovet is much like this, only better. There's really not much else to say about it. Yes - I'd drink it again but there are many others much better, the La Valote Bovet is one.

(Picture courtesy of Christopher Gertz Bech)

Absinthe Clandestine La Bleue (Claude Alain-Bugnon)
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 0.7 liter
And another one from the heart of absinthe-land - Val de Travers in the Neuchatel region of Switzerland. As a former clandestine distiller - Claude Alain-Bugnon is now finally allowed to legally distill what he has loved and done for many years before. Absinthe. Nicely presented in a clear blue bottle with a label that combines modern thinking with belle epoque designs this crystal clear blanche absinthe, or La Bleue, looks really enchanting. Upon opening the bottle the characteristic scent of fennel arises and fills the room.

As with most La Bleues it's the fennel and anise that are the most evident scents in this one. There's a hint of hyssop and wormwood as well but they're easily overpowered by the others. Of course there are more herbs than those in it, but they are the most detectable - at least to me.

It's a rather rich and complex aroma yet very common to a La Bleue which is why I'm not really impressed or anything. Adding water to it almost instantly starts to produce a thick and milky white louche. Beautiful. It reminds a lot of the Kübler 53. The louching does release a bit more of the complexity in the aroma and the room starts to fill with various scents from the glass. Tasting it now is a pleasure. Dilluting it too little will actually result in a bit of a tongue-numbing feeling thanks to the lot of anethole but once you find the perfect ratio of absinthe and water it's a lovely drink. It's really nothing out of the ordinary but it's well made and it's very refreshing. You can't go wrong with this one. At first I thought the taste too would remind a lot of the Kübler 53 and though there are of course similarities they are actually quite different.

All in all this is actually a rather nice absinthe and I would truly recommend it to anyone.

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Kallnacher Absinthe
Switzerland, 55% alc. vol. (110 proof), 1.0 liter
Since the absinthe ban was completely revoked in Switzerland in January 2005, many traditional Suisse La Bleues have seen the legal light of day. The Kallnacher is one of them. This particular bottle was obtained through Absinthevertrieb.de just as the Clandestine.

With the many La Bleues popping up these days it's quite hard to tell them apart. Many are made using similar recipes and many probably with the same sources for herbs. The Kallnacher does of course resemble the others a lot but it does have a little something that differs. The aroma isn't the fennel heavy as many others tend to be. There's a slight more noticable hint of wormwood in it which at first seems very nice.

Pouring it in the glass reveals more of the drinks character and though it's still very promising, there's a slight funk which shouldn't be there. Adding water to it does remove that funk from the aroma but it's still slightly present in taste. The taste is otherwise quite appealing and it actually does differ from many other La Bleues. Good or bad, that's up to each and everyone to decide for themselves, but I enjoy it not being just another one in the crowd.

The funk needs to be dealt with, most definitely but it's nothing that ruins the drink as it is and I do recommend the Kallnacher since it's a very nice drink never the less.

Z'Graggen Absinth
Switzerland, 45% alc. vol. (90 proof), 1.0 liter
Yet another absinthe pops out of Switzerland... Unfortunately not all are good. This one is not. I got this bottle for review from Andy at Absint24.net.

It has a very light green transparent sort of color. I don't know how they managed to get it this way but it certainly isn't right. Either they tried making a blanche and seriously messed things up somehow, or - they actually tried making a verte and still messed things up seriously. What ever they did, it came out wrong.

The initial smell of it is nothing special. One can easily detect the standard herbs but one can also detect that they aren't of very high quality. Adding water to the Z'Graggen produces a very white and rather ok louche but it doesn't in any particular way enhance the aroma of the drink.

Tasting it doesn't present any spectacular surprises at all. It tates of anise and bad fennel and some hyssop. That's when the bitter kicks in. I suspect they might have used wome wormwood when possibly trying to color it. Not much, but I think that's what they might have done. It's not as bad as in the Segarra 68, but it should'nt be there at all.

Now, this is not an absinthe I would recommend and I don't think it will be available for long.

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Absinthe Elixier du Pays des Fées
Switzerland, 55% alc. vol. (110 proof), 1.0 liter
They just keep coming - the La Bleues out of Val de Travers, Switzerland. This bottle was given to me for review by Andy at Absinth24.net.

With a perfect clear color, at 55% and with a label with the Swiss cross and all, it seems to meet all the needs to qualify as a La Bleue, but does it? Yes it does. Honestly, this is a very good absinthe. In the style of a La Bleue it yields a nice floral aroma easily filling the rooms with the scent of fennel, wormwood and anise. There is a slight hint of hyssop in the back and something that I think might be mint or at least something with a minty character.

Adding water to the "Elixier" quickly produces a nice thick and creamy milky white louche. With a heavy cloud rising from the bottom and slowly turning the entire drink completely opaque. The louching further enhances the rich aroma and it lingers wonderfully out of the glass. The taste is just as good as the aroma promises. It can be quite tongue numbing if you add too little water, but at the right ratio it's very good. I'd say it reminds a lot of the Bugnon's Clandestine La Bleue and the Kübler 53, though each one of those are still a drink of its own. They're similar but there are enough differences to set them apart.

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Absinthe Duplais
Switzerland, 72% alc. vol. (144 proof), 0.5 liter
I got this absinthe from Absinthvertrieb.de. Not entirely surprising since much of this product is thanks to Markus Lion of Absinthvertrieb.de himself... In co-operation with the people at the Matter Luginbühl distillery (the people behind the Kallnache Blanche) they manufacture this - the first commercial Swiss verte in a very long time.

So, how is it then? Well, it's based on a historical recipe from the books of Duplais, hence the name. The label is actually a depiction of a painting made by David Tibet exclusively for the Absinthe Duplais!

Now on to tasting. It reveals a very strong nose with a rather intense herbal character. It is clear that it could probably need just a little more work, but it is definitely not bad. This is after all the first batch ever and there are small changes announced for the next batch, released soon. The changes to be made would probably fix the few things I lack in this one. There is a strong wormwood character to it which when dilluted blends nicely with the fennel, anise and detectable - the hyssop. There should be a bit more fennel and anise in it though, both to enhance the louche but also to level the flavor of the wormwood.

The color is a nice slightly dark green and it louches into a light pale green. It could be a bit thicker, as I said, but it's better than many others. All in all I do enjoy the Duplais and I think that the "second coming" of it will be very good.

Update: The second batch of the Duplais Verte has been out for a while and I have had several glasses of it. The second batch is certainly improved and is better balanced than before. It still presents a very nice punch which for some probably will lend them to add more water but this is entirely individual. The Duplais verte is a very good absinthe indeed.

Duplais Verte is now also available for ordering in Sweden at Systembolaget.

The Duplais Verte was awarded a Silver Medal at the 2008 San Francisco World Spirits Competition.

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Absinthe Marco Previtali
Switzerland, 56% alc. vol. (112 proof), sample
Again, from Switzerland - another La Bleue. The Marco Previtali fits right in among the classic La Bleues with the characteristic fennel and anise aroma in combination with a slightly wormwoody and minty character. The Marco Previtali is actually a quite nice La Bleue but it doesn't exactly show off any specialties that would place it above the rest. It's a rather ordinary La Bleue.

The aroma is as I mentioned mainly fennel and anise, with that in mind I had actually expected a slightly thicker louche than what I got. After louching the color was a slight blueish white and quite allright. The aroma did bloom out a bit more but still nothing unexpected or intrigueing in any way.

The taste is rather well balanced and not too numbing in any way. Over all it's a decent absinthe and fares quite well compared to others. I would say that the Marco Previtali is as good as any classic La Bleue but not at the absolute top. However, if you see it, buy it.
Many thanks to my swiss and german friends for getting me this and giving me the chance to try it.

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(Pictures courtesy of MrBonZai)

Zürcher Fée Absinth
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 0.5 liter
Many thanks to my swiss friend, Matthias, I got hold of a bottle of the Zürcher Fée. Given the very many La Bleues that constantly pop out of Switzerland now the hopes of a new, interesting and refreshing drink gets lower each time. So, I didn't have much expectations on this one... I was wrong.
Opening the bottle revealed an interesting fruity nose with a fair amount of wormwood coming through, topped of with the lingering notes of fennel. Smelling it further revealed a slight dirtyness but nothing that scared me away.

Now, adding water to the Zürcher Fée produced the thickest louche I've seen in a long time. Thick oily clouds playing around in the glass to finally make the drink perfectly pearly and milky white. Seriously, it had the creamy nice white of a glass of milk! The aromas really come out after adding water and that fruityness is almost too strong but still - that is what makes it interesting. The taste is also a step away from the regular La Bleues and to me, a nice change. Without sugar it can get a little too much though but with sugar added there is no problem of drinking several glasses of this.

If you like regular La Bleues I definitely think you should try this one if you get the chance. Sure, I think that there are small issues with it that could be taken care of, like that dirtyness which is what makes it a bit overpowered when unsugared. However, that might just be me being picky. Again, if you see it you should most certainly get it.

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La Ptite
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 0.7 liter
Thanks to Andy at Absinthe24.de I had the chance to try this one. It's another one from the heart of absinthe-Switzerland, Val de Travers. Claimed to be made according to an ancient "family recipe" dating back to 1898 and following the old Swiss tradition of making absinthe it should be quite good. So, I may doubt that this recipe actually would date back to 1898 but there's nothing very wrong at all with this absinthe anyway.

It does yield all the classic La Bleue style characteristics and really isn't much of a surprise in any way. It's well made and quite well balanced in taste. There are better La Bleues to get with a richer and fuller taste and mouth but it certainly isn't bad. The main smell is, of course, fennel and anise but also a nice touch of wormwood. I wish the wormwood had been just a bit more noticable though. Upon adding water it louches nicely into a decent white and brings out a little more of the aroma.

The taste is also quite classical to any La Bleue and does get a bit numbing after a few glasses. Either way there are no obvious distractions or anything the would lend me to say it is bad or flawed even though I personally think they could work a bit more on the wormwood to get that to come forward more. If you're looking for a nice La Bleue you could very well buy this one though I think there are other La Bleues that would be better to start with if you haven't ever had one before. The Clandestine or Kübler for instance. Otherwise, go right ahead.

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Absinthe Duplais Blanche
Switzerland, 72% alc. vol. (144 proof), 0.5 liter
This too, as the Duplais verte is made in co-operation between the Luginbuhl distillery and Absinthvertrieb Lion. A venture that seems to be working out just fine.
The Duplais blanche, just as the verte does pack a nice punch that reminds you of the complexity and high alcohol level and will affect you if you're not careful... It's by no means any error though. The Duplais blanche holds a nice and rich herbal complexity with a noticable wormwood character nicely balanced with fennel, anise and some mint. It's basically made off of an old recipe dating back well around 100 years ago with only minor modifications.

The Duplais blanche presents a very nice milky louche which while slowly building up reveals a lot of nice aromas which all reflect the taste you're about to experience once you take your first sip.

This one, currently only along with a few others, is a nice change from the standard lower alcohol level "La Bleues", given it's at 72% instead of around 53%. This helps creating a different complexity than the standard fare of Swiss blanche absinthes. Something I certainly don't have a problem with at all. So, to put it simple the Duplais Blanche is absolutely one absinthe you need to try and I'm confident you will enjoy it.

Duplais Blanche is now also available for private import in Sweden through Systembolaget via the distributor Destillerat.se.

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Blanche Traditionelle (Brut d'Alambic)
Switzerland, 81.3% alc. vol. (163 proof), 0.5 liter
Distilled at the Matter-Luginbühl distillery, developed by the good people of Liqueurs de France and based on a classic old blanche recipe it shouldn't be able to go wrong. To tell the truth - it didn't. It is apparently a winning combination.

Bottled at still strength the price tag really isn't that bad even though it only comes in 0.5 liter bottles. But how does it taste, being it's so strong? Well, most other absinthes that boost their alcohol level above 75% tend to be vile artificial crap like Hapsburg and such. This is nowhere near that.

The Blanche Traditionelle is a very well made absinthe even though it's actually more or less only in the early stages of its life time. It is very well balanced and presents a wonderfully rich aroma. Comparing it with the Blanche de Fougerolles, which is made according to the same recipe but with a different method of manufacturing, the Blanche Traditionelle is way ahead of the BdF. In there among a very fine herbal composition you can clearly notice the nice fruity character of distilled wormwood nicely flirting with your tastebuds.

The louche is ofcourse building up slowly given the high alcohol level but once it gets started it louches very fine and ends up in a nice white. Slowly rising along with the louche is a fine perfume telling what awaits for you to drink.

Seriously, the Blanche Traditionelle is presently (in the beginning of 2006) my favourite blanche absinthe of all times. It's a definite must have.

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Absinth'Love 69
Switzerland, 69% alc. vol. (138 proof), 0.7 liter
In the little town of Couvet is the distillery of Gaudentia Persoz and her family. The maker of La Ptite Absinthe and this one. The Absinth Love 69 is not surprisingly, looking at the label, aimed at the younger clubhopping crowd. In a way that is for once a good thing given that it is actually a traditional La Bleue, distilled and an entirely natural product. Rarely seen targeted at that group.

Question is, will it make them actually enjoy a good absinthe for what it really is? Time will tell.

The Absinth Love 69 is actually a rather good La Bleue with the difference being that it is at a higher alcohol level. Sadly this is also what comes through too much both in the aroma and in taste. There is a noticable amount of wormwood in a rather fine mix with the dominant fennel and anise. The wormwood does carry out in taste as well, but not very much.

Adding water to it produces a rather quick but nice louche and it all ends up in a blueish white opaque drink.
It's a nice absinthe but the alcohol comes through too much in both aroma and taste to take it all the way. I guess that will appeal to the targeted crowd though, and it might actually turn some of them into absinthe drinkers. Real absinthe, that is.

Either way, it's a decent La Bleue but to be honest I'd stick with the La Ptite from this distiller. It's a better La Bleue, with a more "complete" taste and better body.

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Absinthe 55 du Val-de-Travers
Switzerland, 55% alc. vol. (110 proof), 0.7 liter
Another one from Couvet, Switzerland. This one from the artisanal distillery named DistAB.

How many variations can there be in Swiss La Bleues? Well, not that much actually but there's always a little something to distinguish each one from the other. This one is not exactly a surprise in any way but a nice La Bleue either way.

It has a very classical La Bleue style aroma to it with mainly fennel and anise up front and wormwood in the back. This one does present a sort of lemony touch to it also though which might make things a bit more interesting in the end.

Adding iced water to it surely enough produces a nice thick louche but there's no real louching action or anything. It simply louches. No more, no less. In some absinthes the louching as a process in itself is really spectacular but not so in this.

The aroma is still very promising after adding the water and the mouthfeel is very creamy and rich but unfortunately ends in an irritating harshness and bite. The taste is very much La Bleue. I was disappointed no to find much of that lemony touch from the aroma carried over in taste, since that probably would've made this a much more interesting drink. However, this is a nice example of a classic La Bleue and I can easily say that it's a rather nice and refreshing drink for a nice summer day.

That said, I personally think there are better La Bleues to try but if you see it, buy it.

Absinthe DuVallon
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 1.0 liter
So, yet another one of all those La Bleues. Is it getting boring? Well, yes a bit. However, that doesn't affect the fact that this is actually a decent absinthe.

It's as crystal clear as it can possibly get and lends a very classic La Bleue-style aroma. The low alcohol keeps the worst bite away and lets the fennel and anise aromas take most of the available space here. Sure enough there's a hint of mint and wormwood here as well, but not in large amounts.

Slowly dripping iced water into it presents a rather instant thick white louche. Nice to look at but nothing spectacular or out of the ordinary. It's what you'd expect from a La Bleue, no more, no less.

How's the taste then? Well, that too is very typical for this style. It's smooth and got a creamy and rich mouth but tends to be too numbing after a while. There is certainly no need for sugar in this one, but if you like it that way, it does work and it won't destroy it. There are several La Bleues available today and I can't see a reason for promoting this before any of the others. This is a typical La Bleue, end of story. Well made, louches fine, tastes good. It works.

Notes for new modified recipe:
A few months back I recieved a new bottle of the DuVallon blanche. I didn't expect too much of a change even though I was told the recipe had been modified and "improved". However, tasting it actually did show some significant improvement. It had a more pronounced Wormwood profile and a better herbal complexity to it and the overall balance of it was better. By that, the new and yes - improved - DuVallon has earned a bit more respect among the many La Bleues available and represents a very nice offering at that.

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Absinthe Duplais Balance
Switzerland, 60% alc. vol. (120 proof), 0.5 liter
The last one in the Duplais series from Markus Lion and the Matter-Luginbühl distillery. The name Balance is used as a tribute to Jhonn Balance but is also an excellent name for this product given that the aroma, taste and overall profile of this absinthe is in complete balance. Seriously this one is a bargain!

As with the other Duplais absinthes it louches up perfectly when adding water to it and the aroma stays equally good after water is added. The lower alcohol level of course helps to keep this "balance" since the alcohol doesn't show through the herbal profile too much.

So, how does it taste then? Well - actually it tastes just as good as everything has lad me to believe. Its taste is actually quite unique in a way given that the extreme clean and crisp character manages to bring such a complex and rich drink. It's truly special.
To make a comparison to another of my favorites - the Jade PF 1901 - this one is a "lighter" absinthe than that one. Not light in taste or character but the overall profile is lighter in a way that makes it an ideal "every day drink". Whereas the PF 1901 is a deeper more robust sort of absinthe. Two very different absinthes yet with some similarities and both of excellent quality.

The Duplais Balance is a must buy, really. At a price you can't walk away from and excellent quality I really do recommend it.

Duplais Balance is now also available for ordering in Sweden at Systembolaget.

Weinachts Absinthe 2006
Switzerland, 58% alc. vol. (116 proof), 0.5 liter
Made especially for the christmas holidays this absinthe indeed does carry a sort of christmassy character. With ingredients not very common to regular absinthes, contributing to it's special character it's with great anticipation that I give it a try.

I first got this in december 2006, when it was just new and not aged at all. Even then it was a very nice absinthe but I waited to review it until I had given it the chance to age for at least 2-3 months. So, here it is.
A perfectly clear transparent liquid greets you out of the bottle along with a very nice scent. It is easy to detect the wormwood, fennel and anise up front but if you keep it under your nose for just a bit longer you'll soon notice the wonderful smell of coriander. Something I normally detect quite easily immediately but here, it slowly moves up. Just behind that a very slight hint of oranges lingers in the back.
The nice part here is that this and the rest of the ingredients, even though they could surely create a very strange aroma, they are perfectly balanced here and simply leaves you wanting more.

Slowly pouring ice cold water into it presents a steady and thick louche and enhances the aroma of the drink at the same time as it sort of flattens out the otherwise very outstanding presence of each ingredient but leaves more room to the less common ingredients this time. The scent of orange peels for instance and also the star anise is more upfront now.

The mouth-feel is very rich and smooth and presents a sort of strange numbing feeling to the tongue. Not the ordinary too-much-star-anise numbing, but just on the right side of the edge and not too much. This turns into a taste that is a very nice step away from the average line of blanches. It does actually have a christmas-spirit to its taste and the coriander, cardamum and oranges really does add to a unique and very interesting taste. I bet it would be even nicer if aged for a bit longer but I have no more...

That said, I think it's a shame it's not a regular. I would really like another bottle...

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La Veuve Verte
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 0.375 liter
From the distillers of the quite nice La Bleue, DuVallon, a new absinthe was released a short while back. One of the very few Swiss green absinthes. The first question that comes to mind is of course if this is going to be a great pioneer for other "La Bleue" distillers to start cooking up vertes. After all, there are plenty of La Bleues on the market today.

Now then, the packaging makes me somewhat confused. I like the bottle and that it's wax-sealed. I like how the added tag with a little information and a dried twig of wormwood in a little ziplock bag adds to the artisanal feel of it but I don't quite like the label. It looks like an Easter-bunny special with the Wicked Witch on her broom. Sure enough many of the small Swiss distillers tend to have labels that look less Belle Epoque and more "modern" but many also look very unprofessional, like they're simply printed on the home ink-jet. Sadly, that takes away quite a bit of the notion that it's a quality product you're holding in your hand.

Labels aside, we need to try what's inside the bottle... Given that their DuVallon La Bleue is a quite nice absinthe, especially their latest edition of it with a bit more wormwood in it I had my hopes up for this one. The nose first presents a profile very similar to most La Bleues with a nice touch of Fennel, Anise and Wormwood accompanied by Melissa and a hint of what could be mint. Right after that another smell of Wormwood appears, and it's not fine distilled floral Wormwood. No, it's macerated Wormwood that hits the nose. That does ruin the otherwise nice profile.

Pouring a dose in the glass reveals the next thing, the color. The color of the Veuve Verte isn't very green at all. It's a very very pale green with hints of yellow in it. Very similar to the Z'Graggen and the Segarra 68. A disappointment.

Adding water to it provides a very nice and thick louche as expected and the color turns more white, retaining only the faintest hint of green in it. The aroma has developed a bit and is more complex and floral than before - a good sign indeed. The only question now is how it all holds up for drinking. Well, the mouth-feel at first is very full, rich and creamy - as with most La Bleues. Just when a slight numbing is developing a very irritating bitter dryness is sneaking up from the back of the mouth desperately holding on to the tongue. Immediately after swallowing that sip the mouth is left with this very bitter dry feeling. Without a doubt (and yes, it says so on the back label as well) this is colored using Artemisia absinthium. A major mistake!

I assume that this is more or less a colored version of the DuVallon La Bleue. To be honest, it should have been left alone. If they would use proper coloring herbs instead of the one herb you should never use for coloring absinthe - Artemisia absinthium - I am sure they could have come up with a very nice verte. Sadly, this isn't a very nice experience and it requires a good bit of sugar if you really want to drink it. So, what's there to say? Well, first of all - do not color absinthe with grand wormwood. Second, behind that mistake I can certainly detect a good quality absinthe and if it's not the same recipe as the regular DuVallon, they should simply consider using other coloring herbs and this will become a nice product.

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La Fee Vallonne
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 0.5 liter
From the 10th annual Boveresse Fête d'Absinthe, June 2007 I brought home a load of new Swiss absinthes. One of them was this La Bleue, La Fée Vallonne.
As most other La Bleues it is distilled in the Val-de-Travers region and carries the typical flavour profile of a Swiss La Bleue. Or, does it? Well, it is made in the Val-de-Travers but it actually differentiates itself a little bit from the many all too familiar La Bleues available.

With a very pleasant Wormwood aroma up front, nicely accompanied by Fennel and what appears to be Hyssop it blends into a rather fine herbal mix. Upon the addition of iced water it louches nicely even though it's not really an enticing show it puts on or anything but rather a plain and simple louche. It ends up a nice opaque grayish white though, a little bit paler than I expected but otherwise very good. After the water has been slowly dripped into the glass the aroma flattens a bit but then the anise breaks through and lends a fresh sweet nose.

The taste is actually much like a typical La Bleue but with reminders of something leaning toward the Brut d'Alambic mixed with Blanchette. The Wormwood which is constantly just a bit ahead of the other ingredients does improve the drink a lot. That is what makes me like this a bit better than a lot of the other La Bleues. There are so many now that it definitely takes some effort to make something a bit more interesting. This was a nice drink.

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La Philosophe
Switzerland, 54% alc. vol. (108 proof), 1.0 liter
It just seems like the stream of La Bleues never ends. This here is another one I bought in Boveresse and it's another one with a slightly nontraditional label. Call it Pornsinthe if you like...
Distilled in Couvet, home of many absinthes old and new it certainly carries on what has become a "classic" La Bleue style. With an aroma mainly based on Fennel, Anise and Wormwood with little hints of Melissa and a faint minty touch it presents itself as fairly well balanced yet slightly uninteresting.

It louches up just fine when I add iced water to it and ends up in a nice thick white and the aroma actually turns a bit more flowery herbal somehow. The first taste presents a nice full and rich mouth-feel but the aftertaste leaves an awkward dirty taste. Nothing that would indicate a huge error in manufacture or anything but just a strange after taste. The taste is otherwise quite classical La Bleue. No more, no less.
Basically it's "just another" La Bleue. It's quite drinkable with the only disturbing thing being that odd taste. I'm sure some will like that though. There are finer La Bleues out there but it is drinkable.

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Twin Tec Absinthe Biker Medicine
Switzerland, 65% alc. vol. (130 proof), 0.2 liter
Another visit paid to the wonderful Erlebnisbrennerei, Matter-Luginbühl in Kallnach. Home of the Duplais range of absinthes, Martinazzi and several very good eau-de-vie's. In the little town of Kallnach there's a motorcycle enthusiast club and this is their medicine. Distilled at the Matter-Luginbühl distillery it is certainly a well crafted absinthe.

Pouring a dose in the glass reveals a wonderfully vibrant green. Vibrant enough to catch the eye immediately without thinking it's another one of those Spanish club-mixes. It's naturally colored and they make a very good job at that. The aroma is very fine, a nice herbal complexity that seems to stick around forever. With Wormwood clearly present and with fine notes of Artemisia pontica nicely partnered with Fennel and Hyssop. Already at the first few drops of iced water added, it starts blooming, presenting a fine herbal garden spreading out in the entire room.

It louches just fine with a nice clouding going on and at a little more than three parts water it's completely louched, presenting an entirely opaque light green drink. This very good initial impression is carried on into the taste where a well balanced drink in which each herb gets its fifteen minutes of fame without taking over the stage is delivered. A very fine example of a good absinthe. If you get the chance to taste it, you should.

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La Valdetra Verte
Switzerland, 65% alc. vol. (130 proof), 0.7 liter
The La Ptit distillers, with Gaudentia Persoz on the front line have delivered a couple of very nice drinks before. Their flag ship, the La Ptit blanche absinthe, the odd ball clubbers drink with "the tired girl" on the label, the Absinth Love 69 and then there's the very nice Liqueur d'Absinthe. Now they present their first attempt at making a verte, which seems to be the new "it" in the Val-de-Travers.

This new trend in the little Swiss villages also seem to carry the same problem at most of the distillers though - they simply don't know how to color an absinthe. The color of the Valdetra Verte is a very faint tone of green and very transparent. As a couple of other Swiss makers they color it using Artemisia absinthium - not the best herb to use for that task. Sure enough it lends a nice green color if used in combination with more herbs, but it also lends an irritating bitter dry finish which is not desired in a quality absinthe.

Now, that set aside the drink shows a decent complexity in the aroma department and shows really good promise. Then the alcohol breaks through and reminds of the 65% along with a bitter nose. The aroma is more rounded and and with better balance after water is added though and it also presents a licorice scent by then.
The louching is good, as expected and turns the drink into a thick white - more or less the color of any La Bleue. The taste is very much La Bleue with a dry bitter touch to it. I would say that using the correct coloring herbs here and maybe add a bit more wormwood in the initial macerate instead, this could very well be a very interesting drink. As it is now, it's simply not that good. The color is wrong, the nose is off, the taste isn't all that - but... The base of it all seems nice, it's that attempt at coloring it that makes things go wrong. If they keep working on it I'm sure they will manage to get some pretty decent verte out there.

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Absinthe Brevans H.R Giger
Switzerland, 68% alc. vol. (136 proof), 0.5 liter
Another absinthe in the "absinthe art" series from the Matter-Luginbühl/Absinthevertrieb Lion cooperation. This one is based on a traditional recipe from the book of Brevans on the manufacture of liqueurs etc. It has a very vibrant clear green color - a color which on certain forums have been debated on whether it is natural or not. I can honestly guarantee that it is natural - there are no artificial colorants added at all. Now, to move on it has a wonderful nose with a nice complex and tempting aroma. The wine alcohol base is notable and also a good portion of wormwood, green anise and fennel. Slight hints of coriander and a faint minty touch is present also.

The addition of water enhances the overall aroma and lets out more of the herbal complexity and also produces a really nice thick light green louche. The aroma carries on to make a fine full mouth-feel, slightly dry but creamy and certainly acceptable.

The taste is as expected very good and I think the Brevans H.R Giger is one of my personal favorite absinthes from the Matter-Luginbühl distillery.

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Mansinthe by Marilyn Manson
Switzerland, 66.6% alc. vol. (133 proof), 0.7 liter
And again a product coming out of the Matter-Luginbühl distillery and Absinthvertrieb Lion (absinthe.de). This is also part of the "Absinthe art" range and is actually made in cooperation with Marilyn Manson. Even though I'm not personally a huge Marylin Manson fan there's a thing or two of his that even I can listen to. The background of this whole venture goes something like this;
Around 2005 Marilyn Manson contacted Markus Lion from whom he had previously bought absinthe and asked about making his own branded absinthe. Now in 2007, two years later, the final product was released and quite the success.

How is the Mansinthe then? To be honest it is much better than I think many would suspect. I must say that he made a wise choice in contacting Markus Lion on this... The Mansinthe is a decent product and certainly something for the "beginner" absintheur to try out.

First of all, it has a nice green color with a faint touch of yellowish brown and neat it has quite an appealing aroma even though I personally consider it a bit too simple. However it holds the qualities I'd expect and shows no immediate faults.
When diluted with iced water it louches nicely and turns into a fine light-green/white drink but the aroma is somewhat flattened. A nice touch of wormwood with pontica clearly showing through and in a fine blend of fennel, anise, hyssop and a slight touch of melissa sums most of it up. There's more to it but given the lighter profile of this absinthe compared to others it's not showing through as much. In a way that makes for a very nice drink, easy to drink and enjoy but on the other hand it misses a bit of the point of all the goodness a rich and complex absinthe holds.

Either way, the Mansinthe is worth a try and I think that most who try it will actually enjoy it, if for nothing else - for its simplicity in being a refreshing drink - maybe for the coming summer. (I know, it's late November now, but it's never too early to call for summer.)

Mansinthe is now also available for ordering in Sweden at Systembolaget and it's available in Copenhagen at Bouquet Vin

The Mansinthe was awarded a Gold Medal at the 2008 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. See complete results here.

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La Môtisanne, Abinthe Roger Etienne
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 0.5 liter
It was time for another visit to Boveresse for the annual Fête d'Absinthe and that means I bring home a bunch of new absinthes to taste, drink and hopefully enjoy.

During the last few years there have been a silly amount of "La Bleues" released from little distilleries in the villages of Val-de-Travers. Most of them are so close to each other in taste that the whole thing is starting to get boring. However, every now and then there are a couple that actually does stand out with a little something making them just that notch better than the rest. The Môtisanne is one of those.

The first thing that meets you when you open the bottle is a nice fragrance of a very floral wormwood. That is a big part of what makes me like it. The wormwood aroma is nicely coupled with the more common scents of a La Bleue and it literally is room filling. There is no way anyone will miss the perfume from this one.

Adding iced water to it of course makes a quick, steady and thick louche and the aroma gets a bit more mellow but stays interesting. Tasting it reveals that it does hold a good portion of wormwood yet manages to keep it well balanced not to be overpowering or bitter in any way. It has a nice rich mouth-feel and it presents just the things I expect from it. Wormwood, anise and fennel and a minty little touch to finish it off. I must say that when I first sampled this at the fair in Boveresse I wasn't impressed but I bought a bottle of it anyway and now I'm happy that I did. It's a very fine representation of a good La Bleue.

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La Clandestine Alcool de Vin
Switzerland, 53% alc. vol. (106 proof), 0.7 liter
The absinthe festival in Boveresse 2008 didn't present very many interesting new treats apart from one or two decent new La Bleues, so I figured I'd go for the sure bet - the good man Claude Alain-Bugnon. At last I bought a bottle of the Clandestine made with a grape base alcohol.

I've been meaning to get a bottle for a long time but never got around to it... Now there it is, on the shelf among all the other bottles. The question now is of course - does it really taste that different from the original Clandestine? Well, yes it does.

It has a very nice rounded aroma carrying the characteristics of the quality known from the original Clandestine. A wonderful fennel and wormwood aroma with a good portion of anise and a slight floral minty touch. A finely balanced complexity which is often what is missing in many other La Bleues - which is also what makes many of them uninteresting.

As with most La Bleues the louche is pretty much instant but actually not too fast and it ends up as a nice thick white drink. The well rounded aroma and the good louche is well represented also in the mouth-feel which is very creamy and rich. The fennel lends a slight coating to the mouth but rather than being disturbing it adds to the impression of the drink.

The taste is, with no surprise, very similar to the original Clandestine but with a more rounded character from the grape base. The very typical La Bleue character is definitely there and it's in all aspects a very good drink and something I really enjoy. If you haven't tried the Clandestine Alcool de Vin yet I advice you to do so - it's a very good absinthe.

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Absinthe Prométhée
Switzerland, 68% alc. vol. (136 proof), 0.7 liter
The Absinthe Prométhée from the Matter-Luginbühl distillery in Kallnach, Switzerland is quite an interesting drink...
It began with a guy starting as an apprentice at the distillery, Mike Schütz. He came up with a recipe of his own and distillery master Oliver Matter helped him realize the dream of making it. I met Mike at the distillery when I was there for the absinthe festival in Boveresse and he gave me a little sample bottle of his test distillation. A very interesting drink with a lot of potential. It was crisp, clean, complex and easily enjoyable.

Just recently they released the one off limited edition of the full scale version of it and I must say that it is really quite nice. It shows good promise already when pouring it in the glass, revealing a pretty, light green color and a nice scent rising from it. There are clear notes of wormwood and anise but they are nicely blended with all the ingredients into a nice complex aroma. Tiny hints of what is probably Angelica and subtle hints of what must be coriander show in there but the nice blend makes it rather difficuly to pinpoint all the ingredients.

Adding iced water to the Prométhée produces a fine louche, building steadily from the bottom and ending up as a nicely opaque light green drink. Tasting it now confirms that the aroma and the complexity is well carried over into the taste and it goes down smoothly.

Sure, it doesn't knock you off your feet as L'Italienne and there are little bits and pieces that I personally would like to kick up a notch but it's definitely a good absinthe. It came as no surprise when I heard that it was sold out in only four days at Absinthe.de but as far as I know it can still be found at Absintheonline.com and also in Paris based shop Vert d'Absinthe. My suggestion? Go get it - there will be no more once this is gone and you won't be disappointed. It's a good absinthe.

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